RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: An unfussy, retro Korean barbecue joint dedicated to dry-aged pork, just north of Bryant Park.
The Vibe: Boisterous, crowded, unbuttoned. Inspired by Seoul’s late-night dining scene, Don Don’s dining room is big and open, with white-and-blue-striped cinder-block walls and round tables with inlaid gas grills. An illuminated vintage butcher case sits in the back of the room, alongside a tall fridge holding dated cuts of aging pork.
The Food: Thanks to his month-long dry aging process, chef Sungchul Shim’s (see also Mari, Kochi) Berkshire pork tastes extra porky. It’s served by the cut (pork belly, collar, jowl, loin, and a butcher’s special), presented to guests raw, then cooked at the table by a server. There’s also a concise list of side dish staples, like a kimchi stew, a puffy egg soufflé, and several hot and chilled noodle preps. They’re all delicious, imbued with the jangs and other ferments that give Korean cuisine life. To drink, sool: soju, makgeolli, and chungju (rice wine).
The Verdict: Don Don is great. It’s approachable, delicious, well-priced (meats are $27-$80; all else $3-$19), and perfect for groups. And, a bonus: even same-day reservations aren’t hard to come by. –Kat Odell
→ Don Don (Midtown West) • 37 W. 43rd St. (between 5th-6th Aves.) • Lunch and dinner, Reserve.