Three-day-weekend special

Ore Hill (Kent, CT)

GETAWAYS • Litchfield Report

Ever since The New York Times anointed Ore Hill one of the top 50 new restaurants in the U.S., snagging one of the eight tables at the Kent, CT restaurant for a weekend trip to the country has been a tough act, especially since there’s only one seating a night. But Thursdays are more forgiving, which is a gift to locals and a very good reason to add a day to your next Litchfield County getaway. 

At $95, the five-course prix fixe feels like a steal, especially when things kick off with a bite-size cheddar beignet under a generous mountain of osetra. It was a perfect single bite and a fitting compliment to my Smoked Gold cocktail, mixed with local Litchfield Distillery bourbon fat-washed in smoked beef and cut with local Meyer lemon and bee balm — with an absinthe rinse for good measure. (Now that is a Connecticut cocktail.)

The true farm-to-table kitchen — the farms are literally around the corner — fires off some curveballs that work, like a beef tartar "pizza" with horseradish cheese curds and pickled sunchokes and a flavorful rabbit tamale. Less daring but no less winning is a duo of beef (tenderloin rare and short-rib falling apart) and perfectly cooked striped bass with local bok choy. The sleeper (besides that beignet): a peekytoe chawanmushi with jalapeno in a dashi custard — silky smooth, with just enough bite.

While Litchfield County has really ratcheted up its serious dining (local OG Community Table, Materia, Arethusa), this is one of the only prix fixe experiences you'll find in the area. (There’s also a chef’s tasting for $125, which stretches two more courses and requires full-table participation). But despite the elevated service and ambitious food, it's far from fussy. After all, you’re still in the country. –Jason Klein

→ Ore Hill (Kent, CT) • 3 Maple St • Thurs-Sun 6-8p • Reserve.