Brittany in Brooklyn

Third Falcon (Fort Greene)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: A pedigreed alum of Eleven Madison Park, Oxalis, and (Paris favorite) Verjus has landed in Fort Greene, as chef-owner Kali Faulkner’s Third Falcon takes flight, drawing inspiration in form and function from Northern France where seafood and dairy reign supreme. 

The Vibe: Upscale neighborhood bistro, with deep blue accents, exposed brick, and a long bar. A falcon motif is repeated throughout the space, and light streams in through the large, paneled windows and doors, giving the restaurant a certain airiness and spaciousness.

The Food: High-end European crowdpleasers. In the spirit of Northern France, there’s a raw bar with oysters and other rotating offerings. The inventive menu features crispy livarot (a pungent French cheese) with marinated tomatoes and peppery summer savory. Portions run the gamut. Some are petite, like seared scallops and corn bathed in brown butter. Others are more generous — “greens of the moment,” for example, arrive as a mountain of seasonal lettuces and herbs. The mains are priced to be shared, and if you’re really going for it, the sole meunière with summer squash and potato gratin is a sight to behold. For dessert, order the plush brioche, made in house and served with salted butter, and/or (and) the buckwheat sticky toffee pudding.

The Drinks: A brief menu of mostly ciders and wines, all French. For an authentic taste of Normandy, opt for Eric Bordelet’s pear cider — fresh, lively, off-dry.

The Verdict: It’s exciting to see not just the cuisine of Northern France celebrated in New York (in all its briny, buttery glory), but also to watch Fort Greene continue to grow as a hub for unfussy-yet-elegant date nights, as Third Falcon joins the ranks of Sailor, Margot, Roman’s, et al. — je t'aime. –Phoebe Fry

→ Third Falcon (Fort Greene) • 360 Myrtle Ave • Wed-Sun 5-10p • Reserve.