RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: The sophomore effort from Simon Kim, the owner of haute Korean steakhouse Cote, Coqodaq brings to Flatiron a glowy, energetic ode to Korean-American fried chicken with a $38 family-style set menu.
The Vibe: Like Cote, Coqodaq has a spirit so lively it could be mistaken for a nightclub. The entrance is striking: a wall outfitted with three black soapstone handwash stations. Inside, illuminated glass, bronze arches, and a rear infinity mirror make the room feel magnitudes larger than it is. Flanking an L-shaped bar is the majority of the seating, green leather horseshoe booths for four (which they’ll reserve for two or three in the first and last seatings). There’s also a space up front with high-top, communal dining tables for walk-ins.
The Food: The main attraction is a set menu of both Korean and American dishes accompanying two courses of chicken. The first wave includes a bucket of fried chicken — extra plump and moist, coated in a rice flour batter (so, yes, gluten-free) and fried several times until a thick shell forms — served with four dipping sauces in baby squirt bottles. For the follow-up, a choice of more fried chicken, glazed in either spicy gochujang or soy sauce and garlic. Throughout, a flurry of banchan and optional sides (like a silky mac and cheese). To bring one back down to earth, there’s a bowl of cold perilla-seed-dusted noodles, which leads into the finale, lemon yogurt soft serve.
The rest of the menu dresses up the humble bird offerings: Caviar service, a starter of à la carte chicken nuggets crowned with more caviar, and various raw bar options. There’s also an 80-page wine book that includes the largest Champagne list in America, including a very old Dom and more than a handful of rare Selosse expressions.
The Verdict: A high-low masterpiece. Service is top-shelf and the place is comfortable, vibey, and great for groups. Guaranteed, the only issue will be getting in. –Kat Odell