Ain’t that America

The Pink House (West Cornwall, CT)

GETAWAYS • Litchfield County

The Skinny: It’s not every day that one of NYC’s Michelin-starred chefs decides to lay roots in a very rural town previously most famous for its historic covered bridge. But that’s exactly what Gabe McMackin (who earned that star at The Finch in Clinton Hill) has done at the just-opened The Pink House in West Cornwall, CT, where he’s the chef and co-owner (alongside Marina Munoz).

The Vibe: Nestled in the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it town center, the building’s barn exterior and picnic tables belie the sophisticated, modern space inside. There’s a square bar equally adept for eating or drinking, tables ringing the edge of the room, a community table, and a singular round banquette, the jewel perch from which to survey the Connecticut country crowd.

The Food & Drink: McMackin takes pride in highlighting local produce. Everything with vegetables was a winner, including a simple (and simply delicious) salad of little gem lettuces, roasted and raw carrots with goat cheese, and kirby cukes with serranos and cider vinegar. Among the starters, deviled eggs, chicken liver crostini, and hamachi crudo were all excellent. And a smoked steelhead trout, topped with smoked trout roe and accompanied by whipped eggs, garlic confit, and potato chips, provided the most memorable bite of the evening.

Entrees veer into familiar ground — branzino with pole beans, roast chicken, cavatelli with garlic scapes and spinach — but the smoked pork ribs are revelatory. Given the surroundings, you may be tempted to use a knife and fork, but it’s best to pick them up and go for it. Chase with the sole side on the menu, “very special fries” dusted with nutritional yeast and served with Kewpie. Special indeed.

On the tight cocktail menu, look to a winning Sour Cherry Something Something and a slightly lighter but no less winning New Bergamonster, made with vodka, green tea, Bergamot, and honey.

Finally, don’t skip dessert, perhaps a delectable lemon tart or a fresh berry panna cotta. For maximum impact, consider “the chocolate situation,” a decadent mashup of chocolate cake, chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauce, hazelnuts, EVOO, and sea salt. It’s a fitting payoff for those vegetables you started with.

The Verdict: An instant Litchfield County hit, a close cousin to longtime staple Community Table (with a pinch of Brooklyn for good measure). –Jason Klein

→ The Pink House (West Cornwall, CT) • 34 Lower River Rd • Thurs-Mon 5-9p • Reserve.